Whispers Beneath the Baobab: A Night the Wild Claimed Us
By Rodney & Elzabe | Thorn Tree Bush Camp Explorations | Wilderness Tales from Mapesu Private Reserve
Location: Mapesu Private Reserve, Limpopo, South Africa
Activities: Wild camping, game drives, gourmet bush dining, birding, and sunset safaris
Ideal for: Nature lovers, overlanders, birders, couples, pensioners and those seeking untamed African wilderness
Introduction: Where the Bush Speaks in Roars and Stars
There are places in Africa where nature doesn’t just surround you—it swallows you whole, in the best way possible. Mapesu Private Nature Reserve, bordering the famous Mapungubwe National Park, is such a place. Here, in the wilds of northern Limpopo, we found ourselves camping beneath an ancient Baobab tree, embraced by the sounds and spirit of the African night.
But our journey to this wild corner wasn’t by chance. It was sparked by two familiar faces from our Thorn Tree Bush Camp family—Michael and Camilla—whose deep bush knowledge and unwavering love for the wild led us to Mapesu, where they now offer the same warm-hearted hospitality through Mopani Lodge and Mapesu Reserve.
Into the Wild Heart of Mapesu: Where Conservation Meets Ancient Land
As our dusty road curved through groves of mopane trees and golden grasslands, the vastness of Mapesu Private Game Reserve unfolded before us—a 12,500-hectare stretch of wilderness in South Africa’s Limpopo province. Nestled beside the historic Mapungubwe National Park, this reserve isn’t just a place of scenic beauty; it’s a living story of restoration and renewal. Since its establishment in 2014, Mapesu has become a sanctuary for endangered species like cheetahs and African wild dogs, each reintroduction a step toward rebuilding the natural balance that once thrived here.
Our adventure began in true African style. As we bumped along the reserve’s dusty tracks on the way to the campsite, we came to a sudden halt—two magnificent male lions lay sprawled across the road, completely unbothered by our presence. With golden eyes half-closed and muscles rippling under the afternoon sun, they looked every bit the kings of this land. It was as if they were guardians of Mapesu itself, offering us a regal welcome to their domain.
Beyond these chance encounters, the reserve offered even more wonders. We roamed diverse terrain, passing ancient baobabs standing like silent sentinels and spotting flashes of color from some of the 400+ bird species that call this place home. One afternoon, we hiked to the Koaxa Rock Art Shelter, where faded yet powerful San paintings whispered echoes of lives lived long before us.
At day’s end, we found comfort in the rustic charm of Mapesu Wilderness Camp—or for those seeking luxury, the nearby Mopane Bush Lodge offered warm beds and cool drinks under star-lit skies. This wasn’t just a visit to a game reserve; it was a journey into an ancient land, rich with life, history, and hope.
Setting Up Under a Giant: Site #8 and the Baobab’s Watch
We rolled into Site #8, arguably one of Mapesu’s most magical campsites, late in the golden afternoon. The Baobab above us stood like a monument—its massive trunk twisted by centuries of sun, wind, and whispers...
Towering above their camp was the magnificent Baobab, a symbol deeply rooted in African folklore. Sometimes referred to as the “Tree of Life”, Baobabs are revered for their utility, age, and mythical presence. Some trees in southern Africa have stood for well over 2,000 years, though many locals say they’ve existed for thousands more.
Folklore tells that the Baobab once grew upright, too proud for its own good, until the gods uprooted it and planted it upside down—leaving its branches to look like roots clawing at the sky. These trees have long been sources of shelter, food, and medicine. Their trunks can hold thousands of liters of water, and their fruit—rich in nutrients—has sustained people and animals for generations.
For Rodney and Elzabe, sleeping beneath one of these trees wasn't just about location—it was about honoring a living monument. They weren’t just camping; they were stepping into the rhythm of history.
When the Wild Comes to Visit
As darkness fell and the fire flickered low, the bush came alive. The fire crackled warmly as Mopani wood hissed beneath the grill. The smell of boerewors, seared to perfection by Rodney, mingled with the nutty aroma of Elzabe’s freshly baked sourdough bread, which she had prepared in a cast iron pot nestled in glowing coals. These are the details that define camping in Mapesu Private Reserve—an elegant blend of wilderness and comfort, bushcraft and simplicity
A jackal called distantly. Then, out of the silence, came the deep, resonant roar of a lion... safely cocooned in the warmth of their UEV14i Trailer, Rodney and Elzabe were lulled by the rhythm of the bush. Then suddenly—clear and close—the unmistakable whoop of a hyena pierced the night. It was followed by another call, this time right next to their trailer, between them and the Baobab tree.
The moment was electric.
The hyena had come to investigate—perhaps drawn by the scent of food, or simply curious. The bush was no longer a distant hum. It was breathing beside them.
Our trap camera quietly caught a fleeting glimpse of a hyena slinking through the camp—its ghostly figure barely illuminated as it moved through the shadows. The lion’s distant roar, which had sent chills through the darkness earlier, went uncaptured. But somehow, that didn’t matter. What truly made the moment memorable was gathering around with fellow campers the next morning, swapping stories over coffee and laughter, piecing together the night’s mysteries like an impromptu bush detective club. Sometimes, it’s not just the wildlife that leaves a mark—it’s the shared excitement of being part of something wild and unpredictable.
Few travelers to Mapesu Private Reserve are lucky enough to experience this kind of encounter. It wasn’t staged. It wasn’t curated. It was wild Africa in its most authentic form—intimate, unscripted, unforgettable.
Sunset Safari to Mapungubwe: Stories in Stone and Dust
No visit to Mapesu is complete without venturing into Mapungubwe National Park, and we were lucky to do so with Michael and a small group of guests from the UK. They proved to be delightful companions—curious, Full of Jokes, wide-eyed, and completely captivated by Michael’s stories of elephants, ancient kingdoms, and bush lore. The sun setting as seen from the Covalence where the rivers divide three Countries, Botswana, Zimbabwe and South Africa was highlight of this magical area/ region.
Mapungubwe, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in South Africa, holds a remarkable place in African history as the center of the first known kingdom in southern Africa. Flourishing between 1075 and 1220 AD, it was a sophisticated society with evidence of trade networks stretching as far as China, India, and Egypt. Perched atop a sandstone hill where the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers meet, Mapungubwe was home to a powerful elite, symbolized by the famous golden rhino and other royal artifacts. This ancient kingdom laid the foundation for later African civilizations, including Great Zimbabwe, showcasing early social stratification, advanced metallurgy, and international commerce.
Golden Hour in Mapesu: Guided Drive With Phukani
On our final evening, we joined a guided sunset drive within Mapesu Private Reserve itself, led by the brilliant Fhumulani. The sightings were plentiful—zebra, kudu, and giraffes—but it was the setting sun lighting that made the experience unforgettable, with silhouettes of Giraffe against heads above the bush in the setting sun.
A Birthday to Remember: Fine Dining in the Wild
To celebrate Elzabe’s birthday, we booked a three-course dinner at the restaurant within the Wilderness Tented Camp. We weren’t expecting anything extravagant, but what we received was pure bushveld elegance, Andre, chef Quintin and Carel made it a memorable experience with a table for two, and a meal fit for kings, even happy Birthday desert and song by the team.
Dawn in the Wild: Waking to Birds and Tracks
We woke to the smoky scent of last night’s fire and the quiet song of the bush coming to life. Birds fluttered overhead, and the soft morning light painted the Baobab in a golden halo...
Why Mapesu Matters
There are many beautiful places to camp in South Africa, but Mapesu offers something rare—a return to primal rhythms. There are no fences, no barriers between you and the creatures who’ve roamed here for thousands of years...
Final Sightings and a Gentle Goodbye
Travel Tips for Mapesu Visitors
Best Time to Visit: Winter months (May–August) for cooler weather and great wildlife sightings
Must-Do Experiences:
- Sunset game drive to Mapungubwe
- Dinner at Wilderness Tented Camp
- Guided game drive within Mapesu
- Wild camping under the Baobab or any other of the Mapesu wilderness camp sites (highly recommended)
Nearby Attractions: Mapungubwe National Park, Musina Baobab Reserve, Limpopo River birding spots
Highly Recommended
If you’re looking for something authentic, raw, and deeply rewarding—Mapesu Private Reserve is a must. Whether you’re a seasoned camper, a birding enthusiast, or a first-time safari-goer, this place invites you to unplug, unwind, and remember what it means to be wild...
Coming Next: Camping Near Kruger
In our next adventure, we journey east toward the great Kruger National Park to explore Ntakeni Campsite, a peaceful hideaway just outside the Pafuri Gate. There, we’ll share stories of river crossings, night sounds, and encounters that only northern Kruger can offer.
Next up: “Beyond the Gate: Camping Wild at Nthakeni bush and River Camp"